Sample Making 101: Why Your First Samples Matter More Than You Think

by Jasmine Yung

Every successful fashion brand starts with a single idea. But an idea alone isn’t enough, it has to be brought to life. That first sample is where your vision becomes reality. It’s more than just fabric and thread; it’s the foundation of your brand’s identity, quality, and future collections.

For new designers and emerging brands, understanding the sample-making process can feel overwhelming. The good news is that with the right approach, you can turn a concept into a professional, production-ready garment that captures your creative intent.

The Sample Making Workflow: From Concept to First Sew

Creating a sample in fashion is a structured process that blends creativity with precision. Every step moves you closer to the perfect garment.

  1. Concept and design development
    Start with your creative idea. Translate your vision into sketches that highlight silhouette, fit, and key details.

  2. Finalize Designs
    Create sketches, determine measurements, fabric details, and sewing instructions. Tip: Use reference garments to help guide you through the design process.

  3. Sourcing fabrics and trims
    Choose materials that represent your brand’s identity. If your dream fabric is too expensive or unavailable, use a similar one for your first round of sampling.

  4. Creating the Proto Sample
    The proto sample, sometimes called a garment prototype, is your first physical version. It’s designed to test your concept, shape, and proportion before fine-tuning details.

  5. Fit Sample
    A fit sample helps test comfort, drape, and real-life wearability. The focus is on fit and the fit sample is often made with a substitute fabric. Due to long lead times, you want to make sure you make progress with the pattern as you wait for the actual fabric.

  6. Finalizing with a Pre-Production Sample
    When the fit and construction are approved, a PPS is made using production fabrics and trims. This becomes your reference for production.

Going through this process ensures accuracy, consistency, and quality before you commit to a full run. Any issue that you see or overlook during sampling will be magnified in the bulk production. This is your opportunity to minimize risk. 

Importance of Proto 01 and Proto 02

Going from Proto 01 to Proto 02 is one of the most important steps in development. Often, Proto 01 is not going to be very close to your desired garment. But, it provides the foundation to begin to make changes and improvements. Being able to make calculated improvements and address all issues in the first prototype will save you a lot of time and money during the development phase.

Things you should be looking at in Proto 01:

  • Overall fit, shape, and proportion

  • Movement and comfort

  • Fabric drape and performance

  • Placement of seams, pockets, and trims

  • Construction quality and finishing

If you have a successful Proto 02, you will see little to no changes needed. However, keep in mind that the cost of another prototype to correct errors is much less than trying to correct errors once production has started. Typically, an experienced garment designer/manufacturer will be able to perfect the garment within two to three prototypes.

Tech Packs & Patterns 101: The Documents That Make Samples Accurate

Knowing where you are manufacturing is going to affect your process. Typically, USA manufacturers do not work with tech packs while overseas manufacturers do. A physical pattern is enough to start the sample making process. For overseas, a tech pack is industry standard and is typically expected before starting development.

A complete tech pack should include:

  • Flat sketches showing every seam and detail

  • Measurement specs with tolerances

  • Bill of Materials (BOM) listing fabrics and trims

  • Stitching, construction, and finishing notes

  • Label placement, packaging, and branding instructions

A strong tech pack reduces errors, speeds up production, and ensures your samples look and feel exactly as you intended. Communicate with your manufacturer to understand their requirements for patterns and tech packs.

Budgeting Your First Samples: Typical Line Items and How to Save

Building your first sample for your fashion brand can be exciting but also expensive. Careful planning will help you stay in control.

Typical costs include:

  • Pattern making and grading

  • Sample sewing and construction labor

  • Sample fabric and trims

  • Shipping and courier fees

  • Fit model testing and revisions

Smart ways to save:

  • Use substitute fabrics during early rounds, if interchangeable

  • Keep your first collection small and focused

  • Reuse trims and finishes across designs

  • Communicate clearly for prototype revisions

  • Work with local sample makers to cut shipping costs

Each sample is an investment in your future production. Skipping steps in the sample making stage can lead to expensive problems down the line. 

Fabric and Trims for Sampling for Beginners

Choosing the right fabric and trims is key to creating a professional fashion sample. The goal is to get as close as possible to your perfect garment.

Key things to consider:

  • Test fabrics for shrinkage, stretch, and durability before committing

  • Pick materials similar in weight and drape to your final choice

  • Keep a record of all fabric and trim information

  • Start with simple trims to minimize sourcing delays

  • Check fabric availability and lead times before moving to production

The goal is consistency. The closer your sample materials are to production quality, the fewer surprises you’ll face later.

CMT vs. Full Package Sampling: Pros, Cons, and When to Choose Each

When it comes to your brand’s development and production, you’ll often choose between CMT (Cut, Make, Trim) and Full Package manufacturing.

CMT Sampling means you provide all fabrics and trims. The factory handles cutting and sewing. This model gives you more control over materials but requires strong sourcing and coordination skills.

Full Package Sampling means your manufacturer manages sourcing and production from start to finish. It’s faster, simpler, and ideal for new brands that don’t yet have sourcing experience.

Choosing the right model depends on your goals, timeline, and capacity. For many emerging brands, Full Package offers the support needed to build quality from day one.

Approvals, PPS, and Production: What Happens When Your Sample is Approved

Once your first sample is approved, there are still a few key steps before production begins.

  1. Finalize adjustments
    Record every change, update your pattern/tech pack, and ensure your factory has the latest version.

  2. Size range testing
    Create samples in multiple sizes to confirm grading and fit across the range. At the very least make your biggest and smallest size, then make more sizes as needed.

  3. Pre-Production Samples
     These final samples use production fabrics and finishing. They represent your approved design and are used for photoshoots, showrooms, or buyers.

  4. Production sign-off
    Once approved, the PPS becomes the standard for bulk production or the Sew-by Reference. Every production piece must match this benchmark.

Frequently Asked Questions from Fashion Brands

What is a sample?

A sample is a physical version of your design that tests fit, function, and quality before mass production.

How many samples do I need?

Although there’s no set number of samples needed, most brands go through two to three prototypes before having a perfect sample. Then, it is ideal to make a pre-production sample with your approved pattern and production materials.

What is a tech pack and why is it important?

A tech pack is a detailed document that ensures your design is produced correctly. It’s essential for avoiding errors and extra costs.

Can I skip the sampling process?

Skipping sampling is risky. Errors in bulk production can be costly. Sampling gives you the chance to test and refine before committing to large quantities.

What’s the difference between a prototype and a PPS?

A prototype tests your design concept. A PPS is the final version approved for production.

Want to Work With Us?

At House of Ari Jogiel, we bring Strategy, Design, Development, and Manufacturing together under one roof. Since 2017, we’ve partnered with over 350 brands, including The North Face, WNBA, and Hype & Vice.

Headquartered in Los Angeles with global operations, we’re built to support new and emerging brands through every step of the process, from concept to finished garment.

Ready to get started? Submit an inquiry form here.

Want to learn more? Grab a copy of the Start a Fashion Brand Manual, a step-by-step guide to building a successful fashion brand through five clear phases.

Back to Secret Sauce Diaries