Sample Making for Fashion Brands: The Complete Guide

by Jasmine Yung

Bringing a clothing line to life does not start with production. It starts with samples. Sample making for fashion brands is where your concepts become reality. Whether you are an emerging brand or an independent designer, understanding the sample process sets you up for higher quality garments, more efficient processes, and fewer costly mistakes.

This guide explains every stage, from prototype to production ready, and gives you actionable tips to keep your timeline, costs, and quality on track.

What “Sample Making” Means in Apparel

In fashion, sample making is the bridge between design and bulk manufacturing. It is the prototyping stage where you are able to test, feel, and fit garments, ensuring all issues are corrected before entering production. The sample making phase is your opportunity to test:

  • Fit and function. Does the garment look and feel as intended?

  • Construction and finish. Are seams, stitches, and trims high quality?

  • Fabric and trims. Do the materials behave as expected?

  • Specs and measurements. Do you need to make adjustments to the pattern?

For new brands, sample making in fashion reduces risk before the manufacturing phase. It gives you something tangible to adjust and perfect before running the bulk production.

All Sample Types Explained: Proto, Fit, Sew By, PPS, Sales, Size Set and More

Different samples serve different purposes. Here are the main ones:

  • Prototype (Proto): An iteration of the sample making process. The first sample made would be called Proto 01.

  • Fit Sample: Focuses on measurements, drape, and comfort. This often is made when there is not access to the production fabric but you want to make progress with development.

  • Sew By Sample: A reference for a manufacturer to use as a standard during production

  • Pre Production Sample (PPS): The near final sample for approval before manufacturing

  • Size Run Sample: One unit of the garment for all sizes to check grading and consistency

  • TOP (Top of Production): This is the first unit manufactured. At this stage, you are limited in the changes that can be made

Knowing which sample you need helps streamline your fashion design to production workflow. Also, it is important to know what samples to expect given the stage of development you are in. Once you approve a sample, it means that it is perfect and there are no further changes needed, which prompts the manufacturing team to begin bulk production.

How to Plan Your Sampling Timeline (From Sketch to TOP Sample)

Sampling is rarely one and done, typically two to three samples are needed per style. Here is an idea for iterations to expect:

  1. Sketch and Reference: Lock in designs and use reference to create the first pattern

  2. Proto Round One to Three: Test shapes, fit, and fabrics

  3. Fit and Adjustments: Revise Protos for comfort and style

  4. Sew By: Create a production standard for the factory (this can be an approved Proto)

  5. PP Sample: Final review before production begins

  6. TOP Check: Inspect the first garment from production

Allow for about four to six weeks for development. Clear communication and detailed feedback keep the process moving smoothly and lowers costs.

Fabric, Trims and Notions: Choosing Materials That Will Not Derail Production

Materials can make or break a sample. Use the exact fabrics, zippers, buttons, or elastic planned for production. If you do not have access to them, you can use a substitute but it is highly recommended to make at least one sample with all of the production materials before purchasing in bulk and running the full production. Order samples of trims early and keep swatches organized so your clothing prototype process stays smooth.

Suppliers will generally allow you to purchase small batches or samples of fabric or trims at a higher cost for sample making and testing. This minimizes the risk of having a fabric that doesn’t work.

Step-by-Step: Reviewing a Garment Sample Like a Pro

A proper garment sample review checklist keeps you organized:

  1. Measure all samples against your spec sheet and track spec changes

  2. Inspect seams, hems, and stitching for consistency

  3. Evaluate fit and movement. Sit, stretch, and raise arms

  4. Check trims and labels for placement and aesthetic

  5. Document changes with clear photos and notes

This checklist helps catch issues early and limits resampling. Staying organized during the sample making process avoids confusion down the line and ensures that all changes for future prototypes are being implemented as desired.

Feedback that Factories Love: Clear Comments, Photos, and Revision Logs

Factories work best with clear direction. When reviewing samples:

  • Use measurements: Instead of saying “make longer”, say “increase HPS to Hem length by 1”

  • Mark issues on photos or directly on the garment

  • Keep a shared spreadsheet of revisions and approvals

Organized feedback means fewer misunderstandings and faster results. Not communicating effectively can result in having to make an extra sample which means added costs and potential delays.

Avoid These Sampling Pitfalls: Quality Issues, Fit Misses and Vendor Risks

Here are common mistakes to avoid when sampling garments:

  • Skipping prototypes to save money leads to bigger problems later

  • Using substitute fabrics that behave differently in production. Be sure to test the production fabric in a sample before purchasing in bulk

  • Rushing approvals without testing movement and durability

  • Failing to communicate changes across your fashion design to the production workflow

A solid sampling phase protects your reputation and budget. Keeping the development phase efficient will also improve your relationship with your factory, as major delays can tarnish working relationships. Learn how to communicate with your development team and production team to execute efficiently.

Frequently Asked Questions from Fashion Brands

What is sample making for fashion brands?

Sample making is the process of creating prototypes and pre production garments to check quality, fit, and construction before manufacturing at scale.

How much does sample making cost for a clothing line?

Costs range depending on the complexity of the garments and how long it takes to create the samples. Communicate with your development team to review the cost per sample.

How long does the sample process take?

Expect four to six weeks, allowing for adjustments between rounds.

Do I need all sample types?

Not always. Start with prototypes and fit samples, then add pre production or size sets as needed.

Can I skip sampling to save time?

Skipping sample making is risky and can lead to expensive mistakes in production. Always create at least one prototype that is perfect.

Want to Work With Us?

At House of Ari Jogiel, we bring Strategy, Design, Development, and Manufacturing together under one roof. Since 2017, we’ve partnered with over 350 brands, including The North Face, WNBA, and Hype & Vice.

Headquartered in Los Angeles with global operations, we’re built to support new and emerging brands through every step of the process, from concept to finished garment.

Ready to get started? Submit an inquiry form here.

Want to learn more? Grab a copy of the Start a Fashion Brand Manual, a step-by-step guide to building a successful fashion brand through five clear phases.

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